Port wine and orange jelly; takes 15 minutes; makes 1.6 kg; keeps for up to 1 year. Use a relatively inexpensive port and either well-scrubbed or unwaxed fruit for this good all-round jelly. For a more savoury version, stir in 1 tablespoon chopped rosemary with the zests.

Ingredients: 750 ml red port; grated zest and juice of 3 large oranges; grated zest and juice of 1 lemon; 1 kg white granulated sugar; 250 liquid pectin.

1. Put the port, orange and lemon juice and sugar in a large preserving pan and bring the mixture slowly to the boil.

2. Once the sugar has dissolved, bring to a full rolling boil and cook for 10-15 minutes. Add the pectin and boil for a further 2 minutes skimming off any scum from the top of the jelly.

3. Turn off the heat and test for a set. If the jelly has reached setting point, stir in the orange and lemon zest. Boil for 30 seconds.

4. Turn off the heat, allow the jelly to stand for 3-4 minutes to cool slightly, then pot into hot sterilized jars, seal and label.

EXTRACT FROM: Thane Prince 2008 Jams and Chutneys: preserving the harvest. London: Dorling Kinserley, p 42.

Nothing feels more consoling, in damp grey February, than an earnest session of jelly and pie making!